Across the Land of Fire

Flat plains of dry grass lie on the other side of the Strait of Magellan at the end of mainland South America. This was the land of the Yaghans; the indigenous people who had the honor of being regarded as the southernmost living tribe in the world. The biting winds and the frigid cold has changed little since those days. For us it was to be the ending of our long journey south.

Last FerryAfter arriving in Punta Arenas – the Chilean penal colony turned hub for gold prospectors and sheep farmers at the southern end of the South American mainland – we took a ferry to the quiet town of Porvenir on Tierra del Fuego.

More GravelThe first two days of cycling on the island we cross through very desolate, treeless lands. The Patagonian pampas continue, and we are treated to endless views over colorful grasslands being maintained by huge herds of sheep and guanaco.

Tierra del Fuego...The winds here are fierce but mainly in our favor; pushing us from Chile across the border back into Argentina.

HaciendaPassing quickly through the disappointing industrial town of Rio Grande, we found ourselves cycling in the last valley before the forested lands and mountains would return.

Rolling dem bunsLong before arriving in the small town of Tolhuin, we were aware of the famous bakery La Union. Owned by Emilio; this is the last safe haven for passing cyclists on their way south.

HmmmmThe smell of fresh baked goods draws in people from far and wide, and we were more than willing to spend a few days here…

Pastrysampling some of many types of homemade breads, pastries, empanadas, chocolates, and cookies.

Mountain and LakeOur bellies full and our hearts anticipating the long awaited finish, we ride around Lago Fagnano…

Final stretch of roaduntil the imposing Martial mountains come into view.

Last Mountain PassBut before our final descent into Ushuaia; we have one more mountain pass to conquer.

The lake from the passAnd on the top of Paso Garibaldi – while our minds are trying to reach back to the hundreds of hills we must have gone up during these past 20 months – we are rewarded with a magnificent view across the waters of Lago Escondido.

Last descentOn the other side we plummet back down into the snow-covered evergreen forest…

And we pick up a stray dog…

who decided to follow us all the way to the Plaza Civica in downtown Ushuaia.

Where Michiel’s mum…

And both my parents surprised us with an unexpected welcome. (photo courtesy of John Luck)

When all the festivities were over we rode up towards Hotel Del Glacier, where some new friends were waiting for us; our adopted dog still in pursuit… (photo courtesy of John Luck)

After 605 days on our bamboo bicycles we are now done; it is over. Riding down from above the Arctic Circle in Deadhorse, Alaska, we have tried to bring some actionable attention to an issue that we both belief is – and will remain – crucial; how to quench a growing thirst on an increasingly populated planet, and do so in a sustainable way. We tried to help some people, and we hope we inspired some people. We made a lot of new friends and learned many things about ourselves and about the world we live in. We hope we made a small difference…

1 Comment >>

  • Congratulations and well done, Joost and Michiel! It seems like yesterday we met at the Honouring the Elders ceremony in Iskut, BC, Canada (Aug 7, 2010). I’m sure your challenging journey and your wonderful documentation of it has awakened real awareness and concern for water conservation among all those with whom you have connected. Best wishes, Laurie Watt, New Westminster, BC, Canada

    Comment by Laurie Watt — May 2, 2012 @ 14:27

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